Photo #3 via LA Eater
If there is any question as to whether The Line Hotel in Koreatown is LA’s new hot spot, the opening of Commissary on the hotel’s second story pool deck sealed the deal. Commissary, which opened a little over a month ago, is Roy Choi’s latest restaurant in the hotel which already features his buzzed about creations Pot, Pot Lobby Bar, and Cafe. It is as unique in its setting as it is in its details and flair – an all glass greenhouse beside a pool is a sublime oasis in the heart of urban Koreatown. On its exterior, The Line stays true to its urban location showing off a mural by Shepard Fairey.
In a nod to its proximity to Hollywood, the menu is delivered to you in a manila envelope (mine was addressed to “Kanye West”) with cocktails and wine printed on the back. Before opening the envelope I ordered a White Fir – calisaya (an herbal liqueur produced by infusing cinchona calisaya, and other barks, roots and flowers in grain neutral spirit and orange extract) and passion fruit. It was superb and I enjoyed that it was served in a deli storage cup – apparently all the “cooks” drink out of them so it is Commissary’s way of letting guests feel like they are in on the ‘back of the house’ action in addition to being on the coolest picnic ever. While the cocktails stand out, don’t overlook the wine list. The handsome General Manager of Food & Beverage, Hayden Felice, has written an eclectic wine list focusing on small production, family run wineries. It is in keeping with Roy Choi’s emphasis on delicious and interesting offerings for good value.
Stay focused when ordering as inside Kayne’s envelope, are two menu cards. One with pictures of vegetables, meat, fish and a smaller card which lists the sauces that you match with the items on the first card. A little like a workbook from elementary school… My favorites were: the grilled lettuce with bacon, avocado, peaches and parmesan, yellow sauce; bok choy with garlic, ginger, green onion, chilies, brown sauce; scallops with seared green sauce and lemon; and the black bass seared with buttered peas and brown sauce! Everything was insanely good.
Unlike Pot, which is on the first floor of the hotel, Commissary takes reservations and it recently opened for breakfast and lunch. Apparently they have a good breakfast burrito, so I will be back for breakfast soon….
The Line Hotel has quickly become the newest sumptuous spot to eat and be seen. See you there.